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Joined 9 months ago
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Cake day: June 20th, 2025

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  • Backup drive doesn’t need to be anything more than holding your (ideally daily) backup of your main drive(s). It doesn’t need to be powered up and spinning all the time, it can be in the same computer. Spinning up and down causes major wear on hard drives, but I think spinning up once a day for backups is fine and won’t stress it.

    For example, have 3 used enterprise drives in my computer case: 2 in BTRFS RAID1 (mirror) as a data drive and 1 with BTRFS as a backup drive. I use snapshotting to mirror the data drive to the backup drive. I then use restic to copy essential data from the backup drive to a remote cloud location (friend’s house with a 4th smaller hard drive - if I did not have a friend with a hard drive I would use hetzner most likely). My Linux ISO’s don’t go remote, but my photos do.

    Thus I have immediate redundancy (and bit rot protection) from the BTRFS RAID1 data drives, I have a local full backup with the BTRFS backup drive, and I have my essential stuff far away if the computer explodes or something.

    Edit: again, if I was going to save cash I would drop the RAID1 from the data drives and just get 1 data drive and 1 backup drive. RAID1 is never as good as an independent copy.



  • Consumer is fine then, cheapest you can. Edit: I did see people mention SMR drives, get cheapest CMR drives. SMR is not worth the money saved for usual use cases.

    You can def wait, but do the over-under with what you can pay. External drives, even if shucked, seem to be the lowest quality drives and die earliest. May be better to get real drives now, even with inflated costs.

    Make sure you get a drive for backup. Extra layout up front but worth it. I’d recc 1 data drive + 1 backup drive over just 2 raid1 data drives any day.


  • Now is a bad time to buy hard drives price-wise. Massive price gouging going on with all storage pre-sold based on IOUs to “AI” companies.

    If you must…

    Buy used enterprise drives with a ~5 year warranty. In US there is serverpartdeals and goharddrives. I am not sure of the Europe equivalents but I am sure they exist. The enterprise drives should be cheaper than new drives and will last longer; they’ve been used out of their early failure bathtub curve but they’re young enough to be given a 5 year warranty. Make sure to get ones with SATA connectors not SAS, you’ll need a PCIe card to talk to the SAS ones, and maybe something for power idk.

    They should be cheaper - I am not sure if price uncertainty has upended that.

    Enterprise drives are louder, I have them in a quiet case with sound dampening padding (fractal define) and I do not hear them 5 feet away.

    I have heard bad things about consumer drives longevity. I used several 1 TB barracudas for years with no issues in a server setting, I used 3 TB barracudas in a server setting and one failed early. I used a 4 TB Toshiba that failed early and I used an 8 TB blue that is fine in a personal computing setting. I have bought enterprise drives and none have an issue yet.

    It seems luck of the draw, so the thing to maximize is cheapest per GB.




  • SSH lets you remotely control a computer It runs on port 22 If you forward port 22 to your computer, you will allow anyone on the internet to SSH to your computer

    You can do that pretty safely by disabling root login and disabling password logins - only using keys to SSH in.

    You can join the borg botnet by enabling root login, setting a simple password (maybe even password as recommended!), and waiting.



  • The only thing that can get hacked is something that responds on the World Wide Web.

    So you limit the scope of what talks to the WWW:

    Wireguard VPN will not respond unless the magic keys are correct, it’s ideal security and obscurity. Put everything you can behind it.

    For things I want on the WWW without a VPN, I split out two options otherwise.

    1. Caddy checking mTLS certificates that basically allows a device access without extra steps - relying on Caddy to be strong and mTLS to be strong.

    2. Authentik’s proxy check, I think Authelia has this too, but to access a site you hit an Authentik login first.

    For both of those, you rely on those services not having 0-day hacks. More likely for these services to stay ahead of the game and/or fix quick than something that doesn’t exist just to do authentication. I run them in containers that are run by independent users and are read-only with capabilities limited, in a VM.

    I’d say the Caddy route is more secure than Authentik, but it needs more effort to setup the certificate stuff. Authentik route needs a web browser to log in with. Obviously the WG VPN is primo.

    Edit: also tailscale is just managed wireguard, so it has the same benefits as a wireguard vpn with the catch a company has access to your network also now. But really simplifies setup……





  • I am loving OIDC giving a single login for all the things I’ve got going, I see it as a near-essential for adding new services!

    Read-only is easy! You just need to confine where the writes happen. You use volumes for stuff you want to remember were written and tmpfs for stuff you don’t want to remember. Tmpfs for /tmp if needed, volume for the DB, good to go. It is super useful for security since only what is included in the container can be executed greatly reducing the attack area. No way to introduce a new excutable to the container! (you set noexec for tmpfs/volumes)

    I’ve seen difficult setups like a “work directory” where key files, executables, and temp files go. That structure can’t be secured, avoid that. Basically the temp files go in somewhere that’s not a big pile of a “work directory” - like /tmp - and then that structure once again works!

    Of course I wouldn’t say no to an LCARS theme either…



  • I have a USB drive with the key on it. The primary purpose for LUKS for me is so that drives I replace don’t need to be wiped, so I just leave the USB drive in all the time. Makes it so it boots automatically.

    If I lived in a place I owned, I’d stash a rpi somewhere deep and have it do network dropbear automatic unlock to protect the data if the server is nicked. Till then it’s yolo



  • So you don’t need that set up. Moca is well designed to be Omni-directional.

    You do need to put a moca filter in that shitass box between the cable that comes from the outside world and whatever hellsplitting is going on in there. That’s to keep your personal moca network inside so peeps can’t snoop (it’s also encrypted) or cause interference elsewhere.

    Note that you may need to update your splitters and coax wall keystones to be 1+ GHz friendly for Moca. I found where I am has “black” rings on the coax wall keystones that only did the regular cable freq and Moca failed to work. Replaced with modern “blue” rings that do the Moca freq range. And splitters involved in the routing too.

    I have the line in inside, in a panel. It splits 3 ways, and I use that 3 way splitter as a “dumb switch”, replaced with a Moca friendly one. Moca filter between splitter and line in.

    I have modem/router in living room, connected to a switch. Switch also connects to a Moca adapter. Computer in bed room, connected to Moca adapter. I get ballin’ 1 Gbps up and down at the same time (within my network of course, real internet speeds are ass

    May these facts I typed from memory help you achieve your networking dreams :)